Nuremberg, the Best Little Market
Stop Number Two on our trip was meant to give us a break
from being on a train for the ten hours it takes to get from Brussels to
Vienna, but Nuremberg ended up being much more than a pit stop for us.
A quick drop-off of luggage at our hotel and we wandered
passed the garrison walls in search of the market nestled in the center of
town. On our way, we grabbed some Nuremberg and Frankfurter sausages to content
our empty stomachs. The Nurembergs were smaller links than the usually served
bratwurst and you got three in your bread rather than one. Colton doused his in
ketchup and I added some mustard to mine (German mustard has a bit more kick
than your typical French's) and we continued on our way.
The packed market filled the town-center square, and gave a
lot less elbowroom than we had experienced at Brussels (and that wasn't even
much).
There were rows and rows of stalls, primarily handcrafted
and native wares but my eye did catch a few mass-produced items that didn't fit
with the other wares.
Something you will see everywhere in the market are the
mugs. Hot drinks—mulled wines and such, are everywhere at Christmas markets in
Europe, and rather than serve hundreds if not thousands of drinks in disposable
cups, you pay a deposit (usually around
2 euros) and get your drink in a commemorative ceramic mug—which you can have
refilled at any stall once you've finished your first round. Don't want to keep
it? Turn it back in (as long as the stall uses the same type of mug) or keep it
as a souvenir.
Aside from the sausage, Nuremberg boasted of two other
culinary treats—Lebkuchen and Feuerzangenbowle.
Lebkuchen is essentially German gingerbread. Although, since
I don’t regular consumer gingerbread, I can't offer a comparison. This stuff
was a delicious treat—not too sweet, not too "spicy"—and can in dozen
of options from plain to cover in a varieties of chocolates, with nuts—you name
it. We had a white chocolate one and later satisfied our sweet-tooths with one
covered in a strawberry icing. My only regret was that we didn't get extra to
have for later!
After we covered more of the markets we came across a rather
busy café that was also serving a variety of drinks to market-goers, and I
excitedly saw that they served eggnog—something I had not come across yet while
we had been in Europe and thought I would have to go the Christmas season
without. We got a cup and I quickly remembered the Germans fondness and high
tolerance for alcohol. Colton took one look at the cup, saw the beverage's
yellow tinge, and immediately lost interest in the drink. I took one sip and
can only say order it if you like hot alcohol with a splash of cream and some
egg-yness.
I should have kept that in mind when we stumbled across the Feuerzangenbowle
stall. I had heard of this strange drink before and of course wanted to try the
specialty of the area. It's different from other mulled wine drinks because as
they make it, they take a rum-soaked sugar cone and burn it over the drink; the
sugar caramelizes and drips into the big bowl of punch.
It was fun to watch them burn the cones, although you could
see the man making it was tired of tourist taking his picture (interestingly,
Colton and I had noticed more Americans at this market than any other).
Was it fun to drink? Um, no. Colton and I had to dip ginger
biscuits they had at the stall in the cup to consume any of it—we hadn't had
much before we caved, found a dark corner where no one was looking and dumped
the contents, and returned the mug.
We returned to browsing and found ourselves in the
"partners market"—stalls from sister cities of Nuremberg. We glanced
at the various items from Cuba, Argentina, Italy, and several others. We
stopped at the American stall to confirm that the rest of world does indeed
believe that we only consume junk food. Our favorite was the Scottish stall,
where we got our souvenirs for the city, purchased from girl originally from
Ohio.
So yeah, not very German for ourselves, but this market was
definitely my favorite as far as shopping. Although it was not 100% handcrafted
items, everything seemed more authentic and unique that we'd seen at Brussels
(and in Vienna); plus there were a variety of yummy foods to try (I forgot to
mention corn on the cob covered in garlic butter, not fancy but it hit the
spot), so I would high recommend a quick visit to the Nuremberg market if you
make a tour like we did.
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